Dried California Chiles

The California is a dried Anaheim, and about as mild as dried chiles get – sweet and faintly fruity, with an earthiness closer to sun-dried tomato than to fire. It's what gives a red enchilada sauce its color and body, usually with something hotter alongside it for edge.

Stem and seed them, toast in a dry pan for a few seconds a side – they scorch quickly and turn bitter – then soak in hot water for twenty minutes and blend. Strain the purée if you want it smooth. Good for enchilada sauce, tamales, pozole, and adobo.